Laird Hamilton

A Laird Hamilton Update
By Gabby Reece
5-18-2010

Hi Everyone:

Sorry I have been M.I.A. on the Laird reports, but it has been a little hectic transitioning back to the Mainland.  We are now back in Malibu and getting settled in.  Poor Laird loves the area, but every once and in a while I catch him looking out at the California sea and sighing ever so slightly for his Kaua’i and her seas.

However, he got a call on April 22nd from Raimana in Tahiti that a swell was on its way.  En route to California he flew in, dropped off Reece and Speedy (our dog), went to a meeting and then headed back to the airport to catch a plane to Tahiti.  That trip was great; he got barreled and broke all his boards. Then last Wednesday, Raimana called again and Laird was off Thursday afternoon.  He loves going down to the beauty of Tahiti and the warmth of his friends in addition to the hopes and excitement the ocean offers.

His boards did not arrive with him on his direct flight that evening, but did manage to make it at 5 am the next morning.  After assessing the conditions the direction of the swell just didn’t quite hit right, and there was a bit of wind.

Laird and Raimana still spent the day in the water, and then he boarded a flight headed towards California Friday evening.  He was scheduled to come home a day later, but surprised the girls and I by arriving home early.  Laird flew for a total of 16 hours, was on the ground for about 28 hours and if he was a fisherman he would have come home empty handed.  However, this is not Lairds approach. He was glad to have just made the move, is appreciative of the amazing friends he has on the Island who welcome his so graciously, and in the end seems to understand after all these years this is a big part of surfing.

I write this not to only give a snippet of Laird’s life, but also to show you that he is not always “successful”. That maybe part of his own definition of being successful is the fact that you tried.  Of course it’s a great luxury that he can do this as a part of his job, but what came first?

All my best,
Gabby

A Laird Hamilton Update by,
Gabby Reece 1-17-2010

When I last wrote about what was happening in our world, Laird had been hit by his board pretty hard in his shoulder.  Lots of swelling and he mentioned some pain here and there.  Like a lot of tough humans Laird won’t complain too much about his bangs and bruises (unless of course your his wife).  He seems to be doing much better, and here we are just 6 days from the last swell and Mother Nature is delivering once again.  Laird never sets a clock when the waves are big because he is barely sleeping, awaiting the day light when he can get out there.  He left just before light, fueled up on his trusted smoothie and espresso.

Terry Chung met Laird down by Hanalei River this morning and they paddled out to the bay.  Looked about 8-10 (Hawaiian) with some bigger sets rolling in.  I met with them at lunch where they perched themselves over the ocean eating and doing recon work for their afternoon session.  These two grown men act like little giddy school kids getting ready to go on a roller coaster.  They were ‘oohing’ and ‘aaahing’ the set waves, and owing the guys getting mowed over.  So funny!

Don King is over to try and shoot for the swell, and as always he is a calming addition to the group.  If I could only be as still as Don King when I grow up.  I’m not sure what is the choice of equipment for this afternoon (SUP or towing).  I’ll let you know after I get the rundown this evening.  It appears the swell is still coming up so maybe the boys will have a good Monday morning as well.  I get tired just being around their intense enthusiasm.  Laird’s training has a lot to do with why he can still perform at such a high level, but like he said today it’s his real PASSION that keeps him maintaining the lifestyle it takes to do this kind of surfing.  Terry and Laird are great examples of finding the JOY in doing something.  Amen!

I’ll keep you posted.

Gabby