Alarm Clock? Who needs an alarm clock when you have the rumble of the ocean to wake you up!
A Laird Hamilton Update by,
Gabby Reece 1-17-2010
When I last wrote about what was happening in our world, Laird had been hit by his board pretty hard in his shoulder. Lots of swelling and he mentioned some pain here and there. Like a lot of tough humans Laird won’t complain too much about his bangs and bruises (unless of course your his wife). He seems to be doing much better, and here we are just 6 days from the last swell and Mother Nature is delivering once again. Laird never sets a clock when the waves are big because he is barely sleeping, awaiting the day light when he can get out there. He left just before light, fueled up on his trusted smoothie and espresso.
Terry Chung met Laird down by Hanalei River this morning and they paddled out to the bay. Looked about 8-10 (Hawaiian) with some bigger sets rolling in. I met with them at lunch where they perched themselves over the ocean eating and doing recon work for their afternoon session. These two grown men act like little giddy school kids getting ready to go on a roller coaster. They were ‘oohing’ and ‘aaahing’ the set waves, and owing the guys getting mowed over. So funny!
Don King is over to try and shoot for the swell, and as always he is a calming addition to the group. If I could only be as still as Don King when I grow up. I’m not sure what is the choice of equipment for this afternoon (SUP or towing). I’ll let you know after I get the rundown this evening. It appears the swell is still coming up so maybe the boys will have a good Monday morning as well. I get tired just being around their intense enthusiasm. Laird’s training has a lot to do with why he can still perform at such a high level, but like he said today it’s his real PASSION that keeps him maintaining the lifestyle it takes to do this kind of surfing. Terry and Laird are great examples of finding the JOY in doing something. Amen!
I’ll keep you posted.
Gabby
