Laird Hamilton

Posted By
A Laird Life Editor
1-27-2010

Currently, Paddle Surfing is the fastest growing water sport.
Laird is one of the pioneer’s in bringing this amazing activity to the mainstream and is passionate about sharing it with all people.

Laird and his respective shapers design boards that make paddle surfing accessible to all; the design is to accommodate beginners who just want to paddle to more advanced surfers looking to ride the waves. The ‘Laird’ boards are designed after years of experience and are shaped to provide you with the best features and performance of any standup board out there.

Standup paddling is a way for people to enjoy being on the water, getting a core body workout…while paddling sections of coast…but, it’s not just for the ocean…you can use the boards to cruise rivers, coves, bays, and lakes.

PADDLE BOARDS

Choose a Board that is large enough and wide enough to create stability for your size and weight.

Standup paddle boards can roughly be divided into two classes…those better at paddling with more glide….those optimized for wave riding.

PADDLES

Your paddle should be as tall as the reach above your head.

If it’s too short you will be reaching forward – if it’s too big you will be reaching too far back.

Tip: Raise your arms up as if you were doing a pull up and that should be the height of your paddle.

Use the paddle for balance and to help initiate turns. The paddle is a natural extension of the surfer’s hand. You will access spots that most surfers can’t get to, or don’t care to ride…

READY TO STANDUP PADDLE

Take your board and paddle to the water and get in approximately knee deep or the depth where the fin does not touch the ground.

Set the board in the water and get on the board 1 of 2 ways:
-By laying down with the paddle in your hand
-By stepping from in the water on the board if the water is shallow enough
-You can also start off by kneeling on the board at first until you find your balance and get beyond the shore break.

From a laying position
With your stomach in the center of the board, place your hands on the board and rise up to your knees then up on to your feet with your paddle up and out to the side

or

With your stomach in the center of the board, jump from a laying to standing position (a surfing move)

Ready To Go
You want to stand in the middle of your board; not to far forward not to far back. You’ll know by the way the board is balancing on the water; you want the board sitting evenly in the water.

Paddle Direction
It’s a common mistake for beginners to use the paddle the wrong direction.
You want the paddle to be angled forward

Paddle Motion
Balance in the center of the board, keep your arms straight, and rotate the paddle with your body.

Beginners tend to use their arms to paddle and not their body – this is due to balance and the feeling to stay centered.

Constant Motion
As soon as you get up get yourself moving and as you become more comfortable with your balance you can start using your body with your arms straight to push the paddle and move forward. The hardest thing to do on a paddle board is to not move, motion creates stability.

Paddle Strokes
Reach the paddle out in front of you, rotate your body and end your stroke at your feet.

Strokes vary – you might do 3 on 1 side then just 1 on the other or 2 on one side and 5 on the other depending on your strength or the wind.

Switching Sides
After a few strokes you should switch the paddle from one side to the other. The paddle should be at a diagonal position from the hand on top to the water. Lift the paddle out of the water and switch hands and sides every few strokes. The amount of strokes varies per person depending on the speed you desire and the strength of your arms.

When stroking from the right side – hold the top of the paddle in your left hand and below middle with your right hand – paddle should be at a diagonal angle

When stroking from the left side – hold the top of the paddle in your right hand and below middle with your left hand – paddle should be at a diagonal angle

Common Standup Paddling Mistakes

Keep your body up-right; don’t look down with your body. You can look down with your eyes. When you look down it takes away your balance.

Get out there and try it. We know you will be hooked!

Posted By,
A Laird Life Editor
1-27-2010

Experience the joy of paddle surfing with Laird as he films one of his standup paddle sessions. Of course he ends the ride with his famous 360 spin. If only it were that easy for the rest of us!

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Posted by,
A Laird Life Editor
1-18-2010

A Laird Hamilton Update by,
Gabby Reece 1-17-2010

When I last wrote about what was happening in our world, Laird had been hit by his board pretty hard in his shoulder.  Lots of swelling and he mentioned some pain here and there.  Like a lot of tough humans Laird won’t complain too much about his bangs and bruises (unless of course your his wife).  He seems to be doing much better, and here we are just 6 days from the last swell and Mother Nature is delivering once again.  Laird never sets a clock when the waves are big because he is barely sleeping, awaiting the day light when he can get out there.  He left just before light, fueled up on his trusted smoothie and espresso.

Terry Chung met Laird down by Hanalei River this morning and they paddled out to the bay.  Looked about 8-10 (Hawaiian) with some bigger sets rolling in.  I met with them at lunch where they perched themselves over the ocean eating and doing recon work for their afternoon session.  These two grown men act like little giddy school kids getting ready to go on a roller coaster.  They were ‘oohing’ and ‘aaahing’ the set waves, and owing the guys getting mowed over.  So funny!

Don King is over to try and shoot for the swell, and as always he is a calming addition to the group.  If I could only be as still as Don King when I grow up.  I’m not sure what is the choice of equipment for this afternoon (SUP or towing).  I’ll let you know after I get the rundown this evening.  It appears the swell is still coming up so maybe the boys will have a good Monday morning as well.  I get tired just being around their intense enthusiasm.  Laird’s training has a lot to do with why he can still perform at such a high level, but like he said today it’s his real PASSION that keeps him maintaining the lifestyle it takes to do this kind of surfing.  Terry and Laird are great examples of finding the JOY in doing something.  Amen!

I’ll keep you posted.

Gabby

Posted by,
A Laird Life Editor
1-14-2010

Photos Taken By Bob Bangerter

A Laird Hamilton Update by,
Gabby Reece 1-11-2010

Just spoke to Laird as he was standing on the cliff watching Pe’ahi (Jaws) break anywhere from 20-25 Hawaiian (40-50 foot faces).  I have learned with Laird not to ask questions, but just let him tell me the “need to know” information.  Here was the scoop from his day.

He landed last night on Maui, and then surfed for a few hours this morning.  He said that it was very crowded and crossed up (meaning bumpy enough where the rights were choppy enough they could “knock out some of your fillings”).  Even though it was bumpy he said some really beautiful smooth ones were still coming thru.  Laird said he felt good and even had a drop in that felt special.  At one point he got hit by the lip of a wave and either his left shoulder hit his board or his board hit his shoulder.  He towed a few more after that, and it didn’t hurt (you know the get back on the horse mentality), but he said he wasn’t able to swim that well.  So “if I did wipe out I wouldn’t be able to swim too strongly”; hence why Laird is on the cliff now.  He sounded good, but of course a little disappointed that there is still a lot of daylight and waves left.

I think this is one of the things that shows a smart athlete.  One who is willing to take a pass if they know they are not feeling 100%.  I give Laird credit for making the smart choice, and not the one fueled by his desire or ego.  We will post some photos from today as soon as we get them.

Of course right before he hangs up the phone he mentions something about getting a nice little gash while getting back into the chopper from an exposed screw.  Laird has had 1000 non surgical stitches so he never makes a big deal about getting cuts and wounds.

At the end of the call I got the feeling he was glad he went, and was enjoying just being near BIG surf.

Best, Gabby

A Laird Hamilton Update by,
Gabby Reece 1-10-2010

I woke up this morning with Laird telling me he was heading to Maui.  He was going back and forth about leaving on Saturday evening, but seemed to be in focus Sunday.  I always find it interesting to watch Laird gear up for something that takes so much energy that he isn’t quite sure is going to pan out.  He compares it to if one was a football player getting ready for a game that gets canceled.  I was secretly glad he decided to go since I think in the end he needs to at least be there if it is going to go off.

Similar to going to work Laird had to deal with the girls.  Brody insisted on going to the barn with Laird while he prepped and packed his boards.  Then Reece was giving him the pouty face and talking about how she doesn’t get to see him that much.  Funny since that kid never misses a good time with her friends it just was a lull in the action so she re directed her never ceasing energy towards him. Takes one to know one.  I could just see Laird’s face getting squeezed with domestic drama.  Nothing funnier then to watch the helplessness of a man at the hand of his daughters.

Laird wants to surf on Kaua’i, but Don Shearer (the helicopter pilot ) is on Maui and makes shooting so much easier, and he always grumbles something about what a truly special wave Pe’ahi (Jaws) is.  He flew over with Terry Chung and will hook up with Dave Kalama on Maui.  Dave is an amazing waterman, and I call him Laird’s ocean wife.

So let’s keep our fingers crossed that the swell shows up and the conditions are favorable.  I’ll let you know.  Best, Gabby

A Laird Hamilton Update by,
Gabby Reece 1-8-2010

This is getting funny!  Me giving all of you surf lovers my wife perspective on Laird and his day to day life.  I mean if you want to know about his equipment, or wave count on a particular swell I will work on my “surf specific” info.  However, for now I will give you whichever topic is jumping out at me.  First let’s talk about how Laird did such a great birthday for me.  He went into town that morning since our dishwasher melted (literally) and picked up a new one.  If you know anything about living on an island or small town you seldom order anything up on the phone that doesn’t take days or even weeks to arrive.  So with dishwasher in truck he met me at our house as I arrived home from a bike ride.  He did some B level acting about how his day was shot (it was noon by the way) because the wind had hit the surf and he missed some very good sized waves (10-12 ft Hawaiian) in the a.m.

OK so that was his set up.  Then he said something about going to Lumah’i beach to get blasted by some shore break waves to make himself feel better.  Did I want to come?  How could I pass that up.  Needless to say on our way there we took a detour to the other side of Hanalei Bay to a home owned by a very old family where one could only be so lucky to visit.  There on the land were several of my friends, all the children, Chef Leo who is a wonderful cook, and giant waves just 30 feet off shore.  Magical! We gathered, ate scrumptious food, laughed, watched kids catch fish with their nets inside the reef, and saw the waves of Yaikoko’s smashing right before our eyes.  PERFECT.  Laird managed to put something together that made me feel really special but somehow not jolt me into this next decade of my life.  After about 2 hours my knight in shiny surf shorts was off to go surfing.  He had done his husbandly duties and was going out.  He then proceeded to give me a drive by on a ski off shore before they went and towed until dark.

Today I was talking to my friend and neighbor Tiffany who loves to surf.  She was checking the surf when,  I kid you not as I was talking to her on the phone about kid stuff she started laughing and saying “oh my goodness”.  Apparently at that moment she was watching Laird, riding out at Hanalei Bay, take a wave, ride it up on a high line and then proceeds to get blasted.  She said you could see his board going one way and him getting launched in the air.  I then told Laird and he laughed and said “yeah you mean when I was half bird and half fish”?    The ocean was beautiful, with good conditions about 6-8 Hawaiian.  I’m going to go out on a limb, and say Laird may even be a tiny bit tired.  He will probably have a meal and find a way to create some more energy to go out again before dark.  After all the swell is coming up…
Best, Gabby