A Laird Hamilton Update by,
Gabby Reece 1-8-2010
This is getting funny! Me giving all of you surf lovers my wife perspective on Laird and his day to day life. I mean if you want to know about his equipment, or wave count on a particular swell I will work on my “surf specific” info. However, for now I will give you whichever topic is jumping out at me. First let’s talk about how Laird did such a great birthday for me. He went into town that morning since our dishwasher melted (literally) and picked up a new one. If you know anything about living on an island or small town you seldom order anything up on the phone that doesn’t take days or even weeks to arrive. So with dishwasher in truck he met me at our house as I arrived home from a bike ride. He did some B level acting about how his day was shot (it was noon by the way) because the wind had hit the surf and he missed some very good sized waves (10-12 ft Hawaiian) in the a.m.
OK so that was his set up. Then he said something about going to Lumah’i beach to get blasted by some shore break waves to make himself feel better. Did I want to come? How could I pass that up. Needless to say on our way there we took a detour to the other side of Hanalei Bay to a home owned by a very old family where one could only be so lucky to visit. There on the land were several of my friends, all the children, Chef Leo who is a wonderful cook, and giant waves just 30 feet off shore. Magical! We gathered, ate scrumptious food, laughed, watched kids catch fish with their nets inside the reef, and saw the waves of Yaikoko’s smashing right before our eyes. PERFECT. Laird managed to put something together that made me feel really special but somehow not jolt me into this next decade of my life. After about 2 hours my knight in shiny surf shorts was off to go surfing. He had done his husbandly duties and was going out. He then proceeded to give me a drive by on a ski off shore before they went and towed until dark.
Today I was talking to my friend and neighbor Tiffany who loves to surf. She was checking the surf when, I kid you not as I was talking to her on the phone about kid stuff she started laughing and saying “oh my goodness”. Apparently at that moment she was watching Laird, riding out at Hanalei Bay, take a wave, ride it up on a high line and then proceeds to get blasted. She said you could see his board going one way and him getting launched in the air. I then told Laird and he laughed and said “yeah you mean when I was half bird and half fish”? The ocean was beautiful, with good conditions about 6-8 Hawaiian. I’m going to go out on a limb, and say Laird may even be a tiny bit tired. He will probably have a meal and find a way to create some more energy to go out again before dark. After all the swell is coming up…
Best, Gabby