One of Those Days

A Laird Hamilton Update by,
Gabby Reece 1-11-2010

Just spoke to Laird as he was standing on the cliff watching Pe’ahi (Jaws) break anywhere from 20-25 Hawaiian (40-50 foot faces). I have learned with Laird not to ask questions, but just let him tell me the “need to know” information. Here was the scoop from his day.

He landed last night on Maui, and then surfed for a few hours this morning. He said that it was very crowded and crossed up (meaning bumpy enough where the rights were choppy enough they could “knock out some of your fillings”). Even though it was bumpy he said some really beautiful smooth ones were still coming thru. Laird said he felt good and even had a drop in that felt special. At one point he got hit by the lip of a wave and either his left shoulder hit his board or his board hit his shoulder. He towed a few more after that, and it didn’t hurt (you know the get back on the horse mentality), but he said he wasn’t able to swim that well. So “if I did wipe out I wouldn’t be able to swim too strongly”; hence why Laird is on the cliff now. He sounded good, but of course a little disappointed that there is still a lot of daylight and waves left.

I think this is one of the things that shows a smart athlete. One who is willing to take a pass if they know they are not feeling 100%. I give Laird credit for making the smart choice, and not the one fueled by his desire or ego. We will post some photos from today as soon as we get them.

Of course right before he hangs up the phone he mentions something about getting a nice little gash while getting back into the chopper from an exposed screw. Laird has had 1000 non surgical stitches so he never makes a big deal about getting cuts and wounds.

At the end of the call I got the feeling he was glad he went, and was enjoying just being near BIG surf.

Best, Gabby

Tags: big wave surfing, hawaii swell updates, laird hamilton, laird paddle surf, maui swell, peahi 1-11-09, peahi swell news

This entry was posted on Monday, January 11th, 2010 at 2:53 pm and is filed under BLOGS. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

5 Responses to “One of Those Days”

Stand Up Life says:

January 11, 2010 at 5:00 pm

Thanks for sharing the great story of Laird’s adventures today. I look forward to seeing the pictures! Keep up the good work on this blog.

Chris
Jeff says:

January 11, 2010 at 6:35 pm

Good to see you in Paia. Better to see you in the ocean. Mahalo for sharing with us.
uncle d says:

January 12, 2010 at 1:54 am

heard it on the raido this morning…. maybe he can surf tmrw
giorgia piekarski says:

January 12, 2010 at 11:38 am

hey, have you guys thought of starting somekind of program thru the cartoons that kids watch?I bet you both could change the face of america with your positive out look on having fun out doors. All they need is a little inspiration. and you both have the magic that kids love. Help our children, GABBY AND LAIRD< SAVES THE BABY WHALES. orsomething like that, you could do a thing on fun healthy food, funphysical games to play. and of corse, swimming.

Sleep on it..you guys are great.peace
Guillaume says:

January 14, 2010 at 9:37 am

Hi Gabby !
You’re doing a fantastic job on this blog relating Laird’s exploits.
You’re a source of inspiration for a lot a people and their family (including mine).
On my website Surf Prevention, I post a lot of articles about Laird and I recently wrote an article about you to let people in France know who is behind Laird : http://blog.surf-prevention.com/2009/11/30/gabrielle-reece-la-femme-de-laird-hamilton/
An amazing surfer. A wonderful wife. A great family.
Keep up the good work !
See you soon in France.
Doc Guillaume Barucq.
Biarritz.